París inaugura el museo Yves Saint Laurent (fotos)

París inaugura el museo Yves Saint Laurent (fotos)

A prototype wedding dress, from the Spring-Summer 1988 collection, is displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
 REUTERS/Stephane Mahe

 

Yves Saint Laurent pasó a la historia como el diseñador del siglo XX que transgredió los códigos para ofrecer el poder a la mujer. Ahora París abre las puertas de la casa de costura donde confeccionó su revolución.

El nuevo museo, ubicado en un palacete con grandes ventanales situado en una esquina de la lujosa avenida Marceau, invita a sumergirse en el mundo de la alta costura, en una época en que las mujeres acaudaladas encargaban prendas a medida para cada ocasión del día.

Entre 1974 y 2002, Saint Laurent diseñó en sus diferentes salas las colecciones que transformaron para siempre el vestuario femenino. Y fue su excompañero y cofundador de la firma, Pierre Bergé, fallecido este mismo mes, quien se empeñó en convertir estos históricos recovecos en un museo.

También Marrakech, ciudad en la que el diseñador francés nacido en Argelia vivió largas temporadas hasta su muerte en 2008, abrirá el próximo 19 de octubre un museo en su honor.

– Despedido de Dior –

Saint Laurent, convertido en el director artístico más joven del mundo cuando con 21 años asumió ese cargo en Dior, creó su propia marca junto a Bergé cuatro años después, en 1961.

La firma de alta costura lo había despedido un año antes, tras seis colecciones cada cual más vanguardista -la última incluía una inédita chaqueta de cuero-, oficialmente por la depresión nerviosa que le supuso haber sido llamado al frente en la guerra de Argelia.

La ascensión de Saint Laurent fue fulgurante. En 1972, otro ícono revolucionario de aquellos años convulsos, Andy Warhol, lo inmortalizó con cuatro retratos serigrafiados, que abren precisamente la visita al museo.

La famosa cita de Bergé, “Chanel dio la libertad a la mujer, Saint Laurent le dio el poder” se hace en seguida patente con la exposición de las cuatro principales prendas que el diseñador creó para la mujer, apropiándose de los atributos del vestuario masculino.

El esmoquin, la chaqueta sahariana, la gabardina (“trench coat”, abrigo de las trincheras) y el mono (inspirado en el de aviador) fueron constantes en las colecciones de Saint Laurent, de quien se conservan unas 7.000 prendas de alta costura.

Solo unas 50 están expuestas en el museo, que las irá no obstante cambiando para preservar los tejidos, demasiado sensibles a la exposición a la luz.

– El taller, intacto –

El hombre que quiso “acompañar a la mujer en ese gran movimiento de liberación” del siglo XX, trabajaba en un taller conservado intacto, con un gran espejo a través del cual valoraba la evolución de sus creaciones en sus modelos de carne y hueso, ya que no empleaba maniquíes.

Dos grandes mesas y unas estanterías repletas de libros conforman un “gabinete de curiosidades”, con las gafas del diseñador dejadas junto a unos esbozos, varias fotos colgadas de su amiga Catherine Deneuve y hasta una tarjeta de felicitación de Navidad con su perro Moujik dibujado por Warhol y la palabra “Love”.

– La moda y el arte –

Para la moda, Saint Laurent fue un pozo de imaginación, que sin apenas viajar recreó culturas ajenas, desde el traje de torero español hasta el folclore eslavo, con su célebre colección “Ballets rusos”.

El arte representó otra fuente inagotable de inspiración y el museo muestra un vestido de noche que remite a una obra de Picasso, así como el vestido de cóctel con formas geométricas Mondrian, una de sus creaciones más emblemáticas.

“Ante todo, he antepuesto el respeto por este oficio, que no es realmente un arte pero que necesita un artista para existir”, dijo Saint Laurent.

El museo, inaugurado oficialmente este jueves, abrirá sus puertas al público el próximo martes.

por Anna PELEGRI/AFP

Fotos Reuters

Imagen de archivo. El logotipo de Yves Saint Laurent, la segunda marca más grande del grupo de lujo francés Kering, en París, Francia, el 19 de junio de 2017. REUTERS/Charles Platiau
An exterior view shows the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Dresses are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Earings and brooches, jewellery from 1971 and 1981 collections, are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Dresses and hat creations are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Evening jacket “Hommage a ma maison” prototype, from Spring-Summer 1990 collection, is displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
A creation (front), from Autumn-Winter 1983 collection, is displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
A woman walks past the painting Portrait of Yves Saint Laurent (1974) by Andy Warhol at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Fashion drawings (1962) are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Dresses and hat creations are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
A picture of designer Yves Saint Laurent by photographer Jeanloup Sieff is seen in front of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of Yves Saint Laurent’s former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Brooches, jewellery from Autumn-Winter 1979 collection, are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Dresses and hat creations are displayed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
The Studio where all the collections where designed are seen at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Olivier Flaviano, director of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, poses at the museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
A general view shows the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Drawings and photographs are seen on a wall at the Studio where all the collections were designed are seen inside the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Fashion drawings are displayed at the Studio where all the collections where designed at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, France, September 27, 2017. The new museum, celebrating the life and work of French designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), will open at the avenue Marceau address of his former work studio for almost 30 years. Picture taken September 27, 2017. REUTERS/Stephane Mahe
Exit mobile version